Wednesday, March 25, 2009

Top Ten Auto Loan Mistakes


Auto financing can come from one of several sources, including banks, credit unions, and auto dealerships. If you’re serious about buying a car, you need to investigate the various possibilities. Here are the top mistakes some people make when seeking and securing an automobile loan.

1. Not investigating all your options. Many people use credit unions for automobile loans, while others find good deals from their local banks. The key is to investigate all potential lending options, including the dealership. Several sites, such as RoadLoans.com, LendingTree.com, or E-Loan.com will help you make financing comparisons, and in some cases, secure loans.

2. Going by rate alone. The rate is only part of the equation. You need to know how much you’ll be putting down and the terms of the loan before making a decision.

3. Following your emotions. Make sure that you have done your research up front, and you know which car you want and what you are prepared to pay. Do not cave in if the dealer pushes another color or model, for instance, or will not waver on price.

4. Not reviewing your credit ratings first. You should access your credit report and know what your FICO score is. This way you’ll know exactly what the dealer is looking at, so that he or she cannot tell you your number is lower than it actually is. Additionally, if there are any errors, you can inquire about them beforehand.
5. Being quick to accept the dealership financing offer. Dealerships typically offer higher rates because they buy financing from banks and other sources, and raise the rate to make a profit. Shop around.

6. Focusing on payments over price. If you are focused more on low monthly payments than on the price of the car, you may be paying more in the end. Know the overall price of the car and consider the APR, terms, and length of the loan.

7. Looking for the car first. If you are serious about buying a car, you will want to look at financing rates first and determine how much you can afford.

8. Not being able to walk away. Once you begin negotiating, especially at a dealership, you are not obliged to stay. If you do not like the offer or the manner in which the negotiations are headed, walk away.

9. Not taking the shortest term loan. Keep in mind that cars depreciate quickly, so you’ll want to pay off the loan in a short time period. While the monthly payment will be higher in the short term, the interest payment will be lower.

10. Not determining what you can comfortably afford. Unlike a home mortgage, in which people look long and hard at what they will be able to pay over the next 10 to 30 years, car buyers do not always take such payments into careful consideration. “It is only for three years” is a familiar excuse for not evaluating the impact of such payments on your budget. Before buying a car, you need to consider how much money you can put down, and how much you can afford to pay on a monthly basis.

Tuesday, March 24, 2009

A Model Remodel


In hindsight, the red flags were waving, says Karen, a suburban Atlanta homeowner. But in the hubbub of her home-remodeling project she didn’t spot them in time. If only she had. “The financial dealing over this addition has been a nightmare,” says Karen, who prefers to remain anonymous given the bad blood that still exists between her and the contractor who worked on her house.

Karen and her husband paid 40% of the cost up front (red flag number one) because the contractor said he needed money for materials. When she asked for receipts, bills and work orders for the subcontracted work, they never showed up (red flag number two). Then came calls from the concrete company demanding payment for a foundation that had been poured months earlier (big, fat red flag number three). Finally came a letter stating that the concrete firm was putting a lien on the house — as is the right of subcontractors and suppliers who’ve not been paid, even if the customer has paid the general contractor for the work. “That sent me through the roof,” says Karen.

Through the roof and into a not-very-select club of homeowners with gripes against contractors, a club that is swelling along with the $210-billion-a-year remodeling industry. The National Association of Home Builders projects that home remodeling will grow at a 13% rate this year, even as construction of new homes is expected to slow by 10%. Today, the average home is 32 years old, compared with 28 years old in 1993, and Americans are updating their 1970s-era houses to match current tastes.

Too often, though, renovation leads to frustration. Home-improvement contracting was the top category of consumer complaints in 2004, and it has ranked in the top three in each of the past five years, according to an annual survey by state and local consumer-protection agencies. The stakes can be enormous. “We’re not talking about $15,000 additions — we’re talking $150,000, $200,000, $500,000 additions,” says Minneapolis construction lawyer David Hammargren. “As the size of the projects has increased, the size of the problems has increased.”

An unexpected mechanic’s lien, such as the one Karen faced, is a common complaint. Other gripes include defective work, contractors who fail to complete work when promised or farm out too much of the work to unsupervised subcontractors, and crews that don’t clean up the work site or that damage a homeowner’s property.

Before storming off to the complaint department, ask yourself if you’re at least part of the problem. Did you invite trouble by jumping for the lowest bid? “The low-price contractor has no way to fulfill his contract other than by cutting corners,” says Bob Pomeroy, an estimator for Answer Heating & Cooling, in Freeland, Mich. Are you communicating clearly? “We’ve been told to do things, and then, when the husband — usually it’s the husband — comes home, he says, “No way, I’m not paying for that,’ ” says Alan Hanbury, of House of Hanbury Builders, in Newington, Conn. “A lot of things come up in an eight-hour day. Designate one spouse as the official spokesperson.”

Take precautions

A good contract is the best defense against disputes. But few are airtight, and some projects blow up anyway. When necessary, regulators, consumer-protection agencies and, as a last resort, lawyers can help you pick up the pieces.

Karen solved her problem creatively. After she threatened to picket the contractor’s exhibit at a home show, he agreed to pay the disputed tab. She met the concrete subcontractor on the steps of the courthouse with a $3,600 check to head off a lien, which could have forced her to pay twice for the same work, clouded the title to her house and even caused her to lose her house to foreclosure.

In hindsight, the better solution would have been to demand receipts after paying for each subcontracted job. To protect yourself, have the builder acknowledge in writing that subcontractors and suppliers have been paid through the date on the check, and specifically note the work you’ve paid for. Another option is to make out checks jointly to the contractor and the subs (all of whom must endorse the check before it’s cashed). Or you can pay a fee to have a third party make sure everyone is paid — possibly the bank administering your construction loan. Before you get started, it never hurts to call suppliers and subs to ask about their dealings with the contractor. Be wary if the contractor hasn’t worked well with the suppliers and subs in the past — or hasn’t worked with them at all.

How you pay a contractor is almost as important as how much. You never want the money paid to get ahead of the work done because then you have no leverage in a dispute. Spell out the payment schedule in the contract, beginning with the amount to be paid up front. Some states limit down payments to 10% of the contract price; others allow one-third down. When kitchen cabinets or other materials need to be ordered, you can tailor early payments to meet those out-of-pocket costs.

Periodic payments after the work starts should correspond to completed segments of the project — foundation, framing, plumbing, electrical, drywall, flooring, all the way through finished carpentry and painting. You might tie payments to the cost of doing the work plus a percentage of the profit, or pay 10% to 15% after each milestone (assuming, of course, that the building inspector has signed off on all work that requires inspection). But the best way to ensure that work gets done when and how you want it is to leave a significant sum — at least 10% — to be paid only when the job is completed to your satisfaction.

Living with construction can be a nightmare. But instead of resenting the mess, craft a “broom clause” in the contract that assigns responsibility for cleanup or repair. That might have saved Diane Hicks’s sanity. When Hicks hired Home Depot to remodel the kitchen in her condo on Pawley’s Island, S.C., she was unprepared for what followed. “They left the cabinets in the living room for a month — in dirty, filthy boxes on my brand-new carpet. There were nicks in the paint. And the granite guys dragged a slab across the carpet, burning a hole in it. They cut the granite inside the condo, and there was dust all over.”

Home Depot repaired the carpet, but Hicks was unhappy with the finished project and received a partial refund. Says Home Depot spokesman Don Harrison: “We’re responsible for more than 11,000 product installations daily. Unfortunately, it sounds like we let one of our customers down in this instance, and we regret it.”
Get it in writing

Countless contractor disputes arise from dashed expectations, which you can prevent by describing both the job and the materials in excruciating detail. For example, instead of writing “Install country-style oak cabinets” — or, even worse, “Install cabinets” — experts suggest using precise language, such as “Install kitchen cabinets, per plan, manufactured by company XYZ, model ABC, with finish EFG and matching, 3-inch crown molding.”

A start date and at least an approximate completion date are essential in any contract. But just as important is setting a time limit for fixing defects so that if disputes arise, they’re not endless. After delivering a written notice, give the contractor, say, 48 hours, seven days, a month — whatever you negotiate — to correct the defects as agreed. Stipulate that if the repairs aren’t made in time, you’re free to hire someone else, using the money you would have paid the original contractor upon final completion of the job.

Despite all of your best defenses, you may still wind up at loggerheads with your contractor. If a kitchen-table conference doesn’t settle things, you will have to decide whether to complain formally, and to whom. A state licensing body could be an ally, but it might not be as bloodthirsty as you are. “We always try to solve disputes at the lowest possible level,” says Pamela Mares, of the California Contractors State License Board. The board investigates more than 20,000 complaints against contractors annually, and it helped consumers get more than $36 million in restitution in the fiscal year that ended June 30, 2005.

In most states, the process starts with a letter to the contractor. Mediation is often next, in which a neutral third party helps you and the contractor work out a solution. Complaints that remain unresolved may go to arbitration, in which you and the contractor are bound to abide by an arbitrator’s final decision. They may also go to an administrative law judge, who will decide your case after a hearing. In California, the arbitration process takes about four months, and the state pays for the hearing, the arbitrator and one expert witness per complaint. Contractors who violate the law may be prosecuted and ordered to make restitution; ultimately, they may also lose their licenses.

Last resorts

Some states and municipalities, including California, Maryland, Massachusetts, Nevada and New York City, have established funds to reimburse homeowners for shoddy workmanship and violations of building codes, licensing requirements and home-improvement laws. Usually, you can tap the funds only if you’ve exhausted other means of resolution. And claims are typically limited — to $35,000 in Nevada, for example, and $15,000 in both Maryland and New York City. None of these protections is available if you hire an unlicensed contractor in a state that requires licensure, so don’t even think about it. (To see which states license contractors, visit www.contractors-license.org.)

In states where contractors aren’t licensed, you can air a grievance with a professional organization, if your contractor is a member. “We take complaints very seriously,” says Mimi Makar, executive director of the Greater Chicagoland chapter of the National Association of the Remodeling Industry (find a local chapter at www.nari.org). NARI typically arranges for another contractor to go to the job site to evaluate the problem, and it might get suppliers and even product manufacturers involved, too. Contractors who refuse to address substantive issues could have their membership revoked. The National Association of Home Builders’ Remodelors Council may also be able to help resolve an issue.

Absent a regulator or professional organization as an advocate, homeowners looking for restitution can turn to the Better Business Bureau or their local consumer-protection agency. Or a lawyer, of course. But most lawyers would rather you consult with them to review a contract before you sign than fight a contractor afterward. “In many cases, the costs are prohibitive,” says Minneapolis lawyer Hammargren. “Attorneys’ fees are just a fraction of the cost. Most people have no idea how difficult it can be emotionally.” Or how tough it can be to collect an award. Dealing with an insurer can take years, and wrestling with an uninsured contractor can take an eternity.

There is good news, however, if your new gourmet kitchen or home theater is still on the drawing board. The remodeling market may be tilting in your favor as spending on home renovation slows from the recent breakneck pace. Reports are surfacing of contractors giving discounts, providing better plans and more detailed estimates, or following up with customers months after the job is finished — in other words, providing the kind of service that makes building your dream house bearable.

Which Home Improvements Pay Off ?


Generally speaking, there are two ways to go about making home improvements. Either you splurge for something purely for the sybaritic pleasure of having it — the Italian marble bathroom you’ve dreamed about; that skylight that your spouse has been hinting at for the last six years — or you take a pragmatic approach, buying an energy-efficient furnace or repairing a leaky roof because you want to increase your home’s market value.

Don’t expect to score on both counts. “Just because you pour $20,000 into your home doesn’t mean that your house is worth $20,000 more,” says Frank Dell‘Accio, a real-estate broker in Lindenhurst, N.Y. “I had a guy who invested $100,000 in a $130,000 home after he lived there for four years. He put it on the market at $225,000. He was offered $170,000.” His mistake: spending money on amenities that were only peripheral to the value of the house. “He wanted phones in the bathroom,” says Dell‘Accio, “but [who else is] going to pay for them?”

Exactly how much you’ll recoup in costs depends on several factors, including the direction of the broader housing market, the value of the homes in your neighborhood, when you plan to sell the home and the nature of the project itself, explains Stacey Freed, senior editor of Remodeling magazine. In some housing markets, you could indeed earn more than your investment back on a remodeling project. Adding a midrange deck to a home in San Francisco, for example, recoups 116% of its costs, according to Remodeling magazine’s latest survey (which assesses the cost recouped should the house be sold within one year of project completion). But you shouldn’t count on those types of returns. In Columbus, Ohio, the same project is likely to only recoup 58% of its costs.

And keep in mind that the longer you hold on to your home after a remodeling project is completed, the less likely you are to recoup its value. That’s in part because design tastes can shift significantly over time. Remember when avocado green was all the rage? Also, there’s little reward for having the fanciest house on the block, warns certified financial planner Dee Lee of Harvard, Mass. A house that’s priced higher than its neighboring homes could be perceived as overpriced — even if it does have more value.

This section examines a few improvements that pay off more often than not — and some that rarely make a difference when it comes time to sell your home.

Kitchens
Even a few basic improvements to your kitchen can pay handsome dividends, says real-estate agent Michael Murphy in his book “How to Sell Your Home in Good or Bad Times.” Murphy writes: “For most buyers, [the kitchen] is the heart of the house. Paint, wallpaper, and even refloor the room if necessary. Consider sanding, staining or painting dingy-looking cabinets. Replace old cabinet hardware — a low-cost improvement that makes a big difference in appearance.” Just be sure to go with a classic design and, if possible, use high quality materials, says Remodeling magazine’s Cory. After all, good taste endures.

The average amount spent on a major kitchen-remodeling job in the U.S. is $54,241 for a midrange update; an upscale designer makeover averaged $107,973, according to Remodeling magazine. The midrange kitchen overhaul nationally recouped 80% of its cost and 76% of the costs were recovered in an upscale makeover.

Creating New Space
As a rule, improvements that increase the functional space of a home hold their value longer than ones that just make a house look better. It’s also significantly cheaper than adding an addition to your home. Converting an attic into a bedroom, for example, usually costs about $35,960 and returns about 80% of its cost, according to Remodeling magazine. Turning your basement into a room for socializing will set you back, on average, $56,724, and allow you to recoup 79% of your costs.

An Extra Bathroom
Adding an extra bathroom with all the trimmings — marble vanity top, molded sink, bathtub with shower and ceramic tile — almost pays for itself. A midrange full-bath remodeling job in the U.S. has an average price tag of $12,918 and recoups 85% of the costs. A midrange full-bath addition has a national average cost of $28,918 and generally recoups 75% of its cost.

Decks
Installing a deck may be the most cost-efficient way to add square footage to your house, and of all the outdoor home improvements except painting, it may be the most reliable value. Deck additions average $14,728 and generally recoup 77% of their value. That may not sound terribly impressive, but other touted outdoor improvements fare much worse.

New Windows
The savings on your utility bill might make up for the spotty resale value. Replacing 10 three-by-five-foot windows with insulated wood replacement windows typically costs $9,416 and recovers more than 85% of its costs at resale, according to Remodeling magazine. “A good window arrangement, as long as they’re standard, will make money back,” says William Eccleston, a broker in Coventry, R.I. But, he warns, “as soon as you get into customizing, with fancy shapes, bays and bows you can’t see from the street, you’re throwing money down the drain.”

Swimming Pools
It’s commonly agreed that a swimming pool has no resale value at all. “I’ve had clients spend $300,000 and fill in the pool,” says one agent. The main reason pools repel more prospective buyers than they attract is that they require expensive upkeep. Running a close second is the fear of liability: Pool accidents are a quick way to end up the subject of a negligence suit. “A lot of people don’t want the responsibility,” says Remodeling magazine’s Cory.

Manicured Gardens
Fancy gardens — which will require time and money to tend — usually won’t add to the offering price. “Landscaping is for your own enjoyment,” says New Jersey agent Frank Dell‘Accio. “It may be a $40,000 investment, but there’s no way it’ll add $40,000 to the value of your house.” The same goes for expensive fences and stone walls. They look nice, but buyers don’t pay up for them.

Basic Improvements
It may not be all that enjoyable, but it’s the basic improvements that may have the greatest return on your home’s value. “You could have a beautiful new kitchen, but if your roof is leaking, you have a real problem,” says Cory. So if you’re thinking of putting your house on the market in the next year or so, be sure to tackle any problems with the home’s structure or mechanical systems before you, say, install that hot tub you’ve always dreamed of.

Sunday, March 22, 2009

Free Money for Grad School


At age 23, Elizabeth Kerr is a full-time PhD student in religious studies at the University of California at Santa Barbara — and she makes a decent living to boot. Thanks to two fellowships, she’ll earn the equivalent of $42,000 this year, including the full cost of tuition and health insurance plus a stipend for living expenses.

A year of graduate school costs, on average, anywhere from $17,000 for a master’s at a public university to more than $56,000 at a private dental school. Four out of five full-time grad students receive financial aid, and the average package is $20,000 per year; student loans usually make up 75% of the total.

But Kerr will graduate virtually debt-free. So will Matthew Freyer, who’s in his second year of a two-year master’s program in industrial engineering at Penn State University. Freyer, 25, covered his first-year tuition with a fellowship, and this year he has a 20-hour-per-week teaching assistantship that covers tuition. He receives $5,000 a year from another fellowship.

Compared with undergraduate education, far less money is available for grad school on the basis of financial need alone. “Grad schools give awards based more on merit than need,” says Kalman Chany, author of Paying for College Without Going Broke (Princeton Review, $20). In 2003-04, one in five graduate and professional students received a fellowship or grant — averaging $7,500 — with no strings attached. Students in the physical sciences, economics, engineering, religion and theology have the best shot at getting a fellowship; fewer grants are available for advanced degrees in business and education. (For more information on fellowships, visit FastWeb.com or www.cuinfo.cornell.edu/Student/GRFN.)

Assistantships, which require you to work in return for a stipend (the average was just over $10,000 in 2003-04), are most common in the physical sciences. Nearly half of all full-time candidates for master’s degrees in science are paid for work as assistants.

As a research assistant, Kate Kierpiec, 25, who is a fourth-year PhD candidate in immunology and microbiology at Georgetown University, earns $1,750 a month studying DNA in-vitro. The money covers her rent and supplements the fellowship that pays her tuition. “It’s enough to survive but not enough to live on,” says Kierpiec, who waits tables for extra cash.

Awards are competitive and not widely promoted. But you can boost your chances of getting a share.
Start early. Decisions concerning fellowships, scholarships and assistantships are made at the department level, says Mary Pat Doyle, associate director of financial aid for the graduate school at Northwestern University. Awards for the academic year beginning each fall are determined within a month of the application deadline, generally the previous December or January, so it pays to start lobbying a year in advance.

A request for financial aid won’t be held against your admission, says Peter Diffley, co-author of Paying for Graduate School Without Going Broke (Princeton Review, $20) and an associate dean of the graduate school at Notre Dame. Tell the school if you’ll be giving up a salary. The more the faculty wants you, the more aid you’ll get. For example, to lure Seth Parks, 31, from higher-ranked business schools, George Washington University awarded him a 50% tuition waiver for an MBA.

Network. Seek out departments where you’d be a good fit. In Freyer’s case, an undergraduate professor hooked him up with engineering faculty at Penn State.

A year before applying for grad school, Kerr e-mailed scholars in religious studies whose research she respected to ask for academic guidance. They pointed her to UCSB’s professors, who were impressed with her undergraduate record in anthropology at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill.

Spiff up your resume. Graduate-school admission is based on your undergraduate grade-point average, the reputation of your undergraduate school, recommendations and your specific research interests. If your GPA isn’t as high as you’d like, use your application to tout other strengths — field work, jobs, extra classes — that might not appear on your transcript.

Consider a PhD. Doctoral candidates have a better shot at receiving free money, so go for a PhD rather than a master’s if that makes sense in your field. Most PhD programs support their students for at least four years. “If they really want you, a PhD is going to be free,” says Diffley.

Also look into outside funding from a company or organization that would benefit from your research. Rachel Johnson, who will receive a master’s degree in industrial engineering from Arizona State University this spring, received a full-tuition scholarship funded by Intel through Semiconductor Research Corp. And that was just the beginning: Johnson, 24, also landed an Intel internship that led to a job, and she plans to eventually earn a PhD on the company’s dime.

Friday, March 20, 2009

Planning for Retirement


20 to 29

You’re young; you’re starting your career; you’re broke.

Your Portfolio
Standard & Poor’s 500 stock index fund
50%

Small-cap core stock fund
25%

International stock fund
25%

1. Start your 401(k) at work. Contribute at least up to the company match, if any.

2. Start a Roth IRA if you don’t have a 401(k) — or if you have a 401(k) and can afford a Roth, too. You can tap your Roth for a first-time home purchase, if needed. And you can withdraw principal penalty-free.

3. Start an emergency fund, says Kurt Brouwer, financial planner in Tiburon, Calif. If you don’t have a bit saved for a rainy day, you’ll have to go into debt for emergencies — or tap your retirement fund.

4. Make a living will, so your family will know your wishes in case of a health emergency. You’ll need one when you retire, but you never know what will happen in the meantime.

30 to 39

You’re still young; you’re starting a family; you’re in debt up to your eyeballs.

Your Portfolio
Standard & Poor’s 500 stock index fund
50%
International stock fund
20%

Small-cap core stock fund
15%

Mid-cap growth stock fund
15%

1. Don’t reduce your retirement savings for college savings. You can finance college; you can’t finance retirement.

2. Use your 401(k) to help you save. A 401(k) lets you save money before taxes. Suppose you’re in the 25% tax bracket, earn $50,000 a year, and want to save $3,000 a year. Because of the tax savings, that $3,000 would reduce your take-home pay just $2,225.

3. Don’t confuse whole life insurance with a retirement plan, says Peggy Ruhlin, a Columbus, Ohio, financial planner. “Life insurance is good, and you need it to protect your family. But it’s not for retirement savings.”

4. Write your will. You never know.

40 to 49

You’re middle-aged; you’re doing OK; you’re starting to get worried.

Your Portfolio
Standard & Poor’s 500 stock index fund
40%

International stock fund 15%
Small-cap value stock fund 15%
Mid-cap growth stock fund 15%
Bond funds
15%

1. If you’re not contributing the maximum to your 401(k), this is the time to do it.

2. Your rainy-day fund should equal two to three months’ expenses.

3. If you plan to remain in your home, refinance to make sure your mortgage will end when you stop working.

4. If you can fund a Roth IRA, do so. Otherwise, look at alternatives for retirement savings plans, such as tax-efficient mutual funds.

5. Update your living will and make sure someone has power of attorney. You never know.

50 to 59

You’re nearing retirement; you’re at the peak of your career; you’re terrified.

Standard & Poor’s 500 stock index fund
30%

Bond funds
30%

Small-cap value stock fund
10%
Mid-cap growth stock fund
15%
Mid-cap blend stock fund
10%
International stock fund 10%
10%

1. If the kids are out of college, consider reducing your life insurance and increasing your savings.

2. Take advantage of the catch-up provisions for 401(k)s and IRAs, which let you contribute more each year.

3. At 55, start reviewing your Social Security benefits estimate every year and get estimates for any pensions you might receive. See how much your savings will have to be tapped to meet your expenses.

4. Update your will. You never know.

Wednesday, March 18, 2009

Get Life Insurance Before Getting Pregnant


If you’re a woman thinking of starting a family, think about buying life insurance before you even get a positive pregnancy test.

Life insurers like to see a clean bill of health as part of an application. But between 6.5% and 12.9% of women experience minor or major depression at a particular point in time during the first year after having a baby, according to a 2005 survey published by the federal Agency for Healthcare Research and Quality, which looked at the other existing research.

While postpartum depression is generally temporary and readily treatable (if recognized), insurers tend to look at women who have it as higher risks. Life insurance, in its simplest form, pays out upon death, and insurers think moms with the blues are elevated suicide risks. So if you apply for life insurance right after a diagnosis of depression, you could pay twice the lowest possible rate, or more.
This infuriates new moms, who wonder why they’re being penalized for proactively improving their mental health while depressed women who go undiagnosed get preferred rates. Playing logician with the insurance company won’t get you very far though.

Simply avoid the issue altogether by shopping for life insurance before you attempt to conceive, and get a policy where the premium is guaranteed to stay the same.

If you’re already caught up in this issue, enlist your therapist’s help in sending a written request for a better deal, especially if your treatment is complete. Many insurers will consider appeals.

Note that lying on an insurance application is a bad idea. In the event of your untimely death, the insurer could launch an inquiry and revoke your policy.

Monday, March 16, 2009

How to Pay Off a Big Tax Bill


Some people ignore their tax responsibilities because they don’t have enough money to pay their IRS bill. Not a good idea.

If you don’t file a return, you’ll ultimately make matters worse. The IRS assesses a failure-to-file penalty as well as one for not paying your bill. The fees are reminiscent of loan-shark rates, assessed each month at a rate of 5 percent of your tax bill (4.5 percent late-filing fee plus 0.5 percent late-payment penalty). As the months roll by, these fees can ultimately reach up to 47.5 percent of your tax bill. Ouch!

So your best move is to file the forms and pay as much of your bill as you can. You’ll still face the failure-to-pay penalty each month your bill is outstanding, but it’s only 0.5 percent of the amount you owe. With that out of the way, then it’s time to look at other payment options.

Pay with plastic

Like most other creditors, Uncle Sam accepts credit cards. Two private firms, Official Payments and Link2Gov, have contracted with the IRS to process charged tax payments. Both accept American Express, Discover, MasterCard or Visa. You can use your credit card regardless of whether you file by mail or electronically.

While handy, the credit option does have other costs. Both companies collect a fee of around 2.5 percent of your payment amount.

You also need to handle your credit card account wisely. The payment to the IRS will add to your account’s balance; if you don’t pay it off in full, additional interest charges by the card issuer will accrue.

Arrange an installment plan

If this is the first time you’ve had trouble meeting your tax obligation, set up an installment payment plan with the IRS by filing Form 9465.

The tax agency even allows you some leeway in establishing payment terms (e.g., monthly payment amount, due date) that fit your financial situation. In some cases, the IRS also allows installment plans for partial payment of due taxes.

The installment plan, however, is not painless.

You must pay off your IRS loan in at least three years.

Most taxpayers will be charged a one-time fee of $105; it’s reduced if you set up direct debit payment or make less than a certain income level.

And, as with any such loan, your outstanding balance is subject to interest charges.
Get more time

In some situations, you might qualify for more time to pay, as long as you can convince the IRS that the delay will help you ultimately fulfill your tax obligation.

If you qualify, you’ll get between 30 days to 120 days to pay your due tax. You’ll also generally pay less in penalties and interest than you would if you paid your taxes via an installment agreement.

Request a short-term extension of time to pay by filing an Online Payment Agreement application or by calling 1-800-829-1040.

Make a tax deal

In some cases, the IRS might be willing to accept an offer in compromise, or an OIC. This is a lump-sum payment you offer to make that is less than the total amount of tax you owe.

The IRS sometimes agrees to smaller payments so that it will get at least some tax payments more quickly and without years of costly collection efforts.

An OIC is not simply a haggling technique to reduce your bill. The key to a successful offer is to propose an amount that reasonably reflects your ability to pay. To discourage taxpayers from making an offer just to stall payment, you must include a $150 application fee with the OIC request. If your offer is accepted, the fee will go toward your new payment amount.

The IRS reviews an applicant’s financial situation and future income potential to determine whether an offer is appropriate. In most cases, the decision is no. The IRS says that since the OIC program was designed for taxpayers in extreme financial duress, few individuals qualify under terms they would like.

If, however, you believe your situation would meet the requirements, you can get detailed information in IRS booklet Offer in Compromise, Form 656.

Whichever tax payment method you choose, don’t delay. Putting off your filing and payment of taxes will only compound your financial and tax problems.

Wednesday, March 11, 2009

Credit Card Financing



Theory’s great and reality’s scary.

The answer is “yes.” But there are several big “ifs” attached.

The question? Oh, sorry and it’s one I get asked so often I thought you might know what I was referring to. So let me back up.

People from all walks of life are inundated through e-mail or snail mail with long-term, low-interest credit card offers.

You know the type: 1.99 percent interest until the balance is paid off, or something similar.

Can you actually finance a car that way — saving a small fortune in interest charges without taking a dealer’s lowest rate and thereby letting you take advantage of any and all rebates?

Like I said, the answer is “yes.” Yes, you can do it, and in theory it’s a great idea. In practice, however, using credit cards to buy cars is fraught with pitfalls. Here are only a few:

Sometimes the fine print points out the offer is for an “introductory rate” that can rise after a few months and can hit 24 percent or more.

The “life of the balance” offer often applies only to balances you roll over from competing credit cards and not to new purchases or cash advances. Of course, you could make the purchase on one card and then quickly transfer the balance, but things could go wrong there, too.

The “life of balance” promise can change without warning — if you’re late with one payment, for example, the balance then can be jacked up to the highest rate allowed. Or, thanks to a common clause called “universal default,” the credit card company can raise your rate sky-high if you are late with a single payment to some other credit card, or perhaps even to your cable TV service.

So, unless you are especially astute in managing your money and fastidious in paying your bills, a conventional auto loan, secured by the vehicle financed, is still the best and cheapest way to go. Short of paying cash, that is.